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Luca Luca's New Creative Force Off to Winning Start by Renata Espinosa
NEW YORK - Could Raul Melgoza, the new creative director of Luca Luca, be the next Francisco Costa? Melgoza might just give Costa, the celebrated designer of Calvin Klein, a run for his money in the department of cool, crisp minimalism if his Spring 2009 collection is any indication. For lovers of sleek and simple, it was a home run. Holding his first show for Luca Luca on Monday, Sept. 8, Melgoza, who has worked as a designer for the focus on a body-driven, brand since 2005, said he kept the house's formfitting silhouette, but made it more youthful and emphasized sportswear rather than the red carpet fare usually associated with the label. "In order to take the company to the next level, I think it should have a broader product line," said Melgoza backstage after the show.
Clean lines and asymmetry were the major themes in this collection, owing to Melgoza?s architectural aesthetic.
"Not heavy on prints, not heavy on embellishment," was how he summed it up. Starting with a series of streamlined white silk gazar sheath dresses, Melgoza?s sportswear moment kicked in with cuffed cotton shorts, skinny pants and high-waisted skirts paired with whisper thin tanks and cotton shirts with curved organza insets in the back.
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With the economy cracking at the seams and high-street chains such as Marks & Spencer and John Lewis reporting losses, the time is far from ideal to launch a career as a fashion designer. But during London Fashion Week (LFW), which opened at the Natural History Museum yesterday, a record number of more than 60 young design graduates will be featured - each of whom is hoping to capture the attention of the world's press and buyers. Many of them are fresh out of fashion college and their principal route to success is to secure support from one of the week's talent showcases or sponsorship schemes. LFW undoubtedly struggles against the might of the powerhouses of New York, Milan and Paris, but it is recognised the world over as the launchpad for the designers of tomorrow - thanks in no small part to such schemes.  The New Generation initiative, for instance - which was established in 1993 and is being sponsored by Topshop  for the 14th season - provides those who are lucky enough to be selected with a grant and a free show venue. read more...

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Anna Sui at New York Fashion Week - spring/summer 2009 collection
New York’s favourite hippie-chick was looking to Egypt, where she recently spent several weeks exploring Luxor, Karnak and Cairo, in her collection for next season. This spelt out peasant blouses and smock dresses in Pharisaic prints, hieroglyphic patterns embellished with fringing and chunky Cleopatra-style jewellery.
But there was equally a heavy doze of Mexicana,via boho-dresses in tequila sunrise colours, worn with embroidered espadrilles and tasselled bags. read more...

 

Milan shows keep focus on shoes, hats and scarves
By Jo Winterbottom

MILAN (Reuters) - Designers Rocco Barocco and Roberta Scarpa kept attention firmly on accessories at the start of Milan's womenswear week, and the chief executive of Gianfranco Ferre said the label was developing this area. As the credit crunch threatens to crimp spending on luxury goods, designers are increasingly aware that jewelry, hats and shoes give shoppers without the spending power for a red-carpet frock a way of buying into their favorite brand. "I think shoes and costume jewelry are racing ahead," Ferre CEO Michela Piva told Il Sole 24 Ore newspaper. "You've only got to think that 1,000 euros is not enough to buy a beautiful bag by a famous brand but you can have even luxury shoes for 350-400 euros." Barocco's models strode out in strikingly high mules in metallic bronze or black-and-white geometrics, while Scarpa -- her name means shoe in Italian -- scooped into platform shoes with a Z shaped heel in red or bright blue. read more...

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'Runway's' Leanne earns raves at finale by Amanda Kwan

NEW YORK - The women ruled the "Project Runway" finale Friday, leaving the reality competition's remaining male designers in the dust of jewel toned silks, vintage inspirations and dramatic showpieces.
For most of the show's alums, the clear favorite was Portland, Ore.-based designer Leanne Marshall, the quiet, bespectacled brunette who went from being in the bottom two to winning consecutive challenges with her folded fabric structures.
"I'm down with the women, and I'm never down with the women, but they brought it," said Terri Stevens, one of two designers sent packing in the most recent episode of the Bravo show. "I think it's going to be a hard decision but for me if I had to go with a tight show: Leanne."
Marshall sent down a beautifully crafted collection of separates and dresses draped in large panels of white, cream and shades of turquoise. The first look, a cream colored off-the-shoulder top tucked into a turquoise bubble skirt winged with large petals, drew immediate applause.
Korto Momolu, another tent favorite, explained that she was inspired by nature and the landscape of Africa. Her collection of halter dresses and minis with balloon sleeves in bright green, khaki and yellow was accented with heavy, beaded African jewelry that Momolu also made. read more...

New York Fashion Week

The spring 2009 collection of designer Oscar de la Renta
is modeled during Fashion Week in New York, Wednesday Sept. 10, 2008
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